Monthly Bailout

On average, each month contains 30 days. According to any estimate, Bangkok harbors millions of men and women attaching their lives to their monthly pay. I can’t help but wonder how many days in a month an average Joe is allowed to feel “affluent.” Also, I’m curious about how many of those can spend relatively freely for more than a few days in that month.

As far as I have seen, there are not too many days or too many people, which doesn’t come as a big surprise. Just ask any big city about the subjects who roam her streets on a daily basis.

But one thing that I know for sure is that when the ordinary people of the City of Angels rejoice over their payday, they do it in unison.

The starting monthly wage for college graduates holding a bachelor’s degree is an average of THB 12,000 (approx USD 350 or Euro 266.) (side note: minimum salary to have a regular credit card approved is THB 15,000 (approx USD 440 or Euro 330.)) Almost all monthly salaries in Bangkok come wired to a person’s bank account at month’s end. Pay day, hurray!!!!!

That is when it all happens.

There are a few reasons why a celebration en mass happens across the city. First of all, many young workers, esp. those leaving their parents behind in the provinces, get to take pride in sending a portion of their income home in support of the elders. This is on top of the Social Security Fund introduced some 15 years ago, a program that has been in place longer than most people can remember.

What is left after the above mentioned ‘gratitude’ tax is for city necessities. Rent (approx 4,000 - 5,000 Baht/month for a basic studio &, if you as a Bangkok native don't live w/ your parents anymore, which is increasingly common,) food, clothes, CELL PHONE BILL, and OTHER SOCIAL TAXES. Month end seems to be the only time of any month when most people can flirt w/ luxury, whatever that means individually. The best pay day is the one that falls on the Friday preceding the last weekend of a month. Call it Mad Friday if you will.

Vendor stalls that form part of canteen tents welcome administrative and secretarial staff who otherwise would only gobble up a 25-Baht meal in the food section and then head back to work. This day of the month sings a much more pleasurable tune. This day also sees office maids brandishing their 100-Baht bill at the vending section of the tent as well. But, higher earners from the same company go far beyond the tents.

After work these folks congregate with friends and lovers and flock to malls, restaurants, movie houses, bars, and concerts. It is so typical of department stores and retail shops to be flaunting discounts of 50-80% at midnight sales or clearance discounts over the last weekend of the month. This is when Bangkok is at her commercial peak. The traffic is beyond ludicrous, the sidewalks congested, taxi drivers happiest, night scenes the most flamboyant and of course spenders the most reckless. The entire city becomes a kite, flying high on ecstasy.


Euphoria is rampant.

After the happy pill makes you go up, it will eventually take you down. This very same law of gravity applies w/ Bangkok's spree as well. Taxi drivers told me they make good money from the 25th of any month until around the 10th of the next. Between then is not their favorite period. Also, I've never seen any out-of-this-world campaign to boost earnings by any establishment in the middle of a month. The hyper metropolis becomes sober for a while. Then, another pill is popped and the gorgeous numbness kicks in again.

Speaking of public spending, I can't help but be reminded of the financial gloom merrily spun by the world’s media at the moment. In Thailand's case, our central bank keeps assuring us we are just fine. For one thing, they say, non-performing loan accounts for only 4% of the total assets by all commercials banks in the country.

So, fine it is.

Travelers usually ask what time of the year is best to visit a place blah blah blah. Now, it’s not exclusively about which time of year anymore, is it? Come see right through most Bangkokians at a month's end or otherwise. Just pick a schedule you fantasize.

Oooh tomorrow is Friday, the 31st of October. What Chilean wine should I get for dinner? Should it be Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or, Syrah? Oooh, can't wait! (side note: I'd rather use cash on "luxurious" items ‘cause I absolutely detest receiving a credit card statement from some heartless bank that demands at least a thousand Baht as the minimum payment.)

Struggling Joe

She Bangs!

A question to those who have been to Bangkok: did you ever wonder why a lot of places here start w/ a "Bang"? For those who have only heard of Bangkok, know now there are tons of Bang's in the city.


The other night, our guest Mohsin couldn't remember the entire name of a district where he was going to attend a wedding of his Thai friend. He showed me an address and it read Bang Khun Prom. Oooh, that's far!

Before Mohsin, we had four fab girls from the States. One night, they dragged my husband w/ them to see pussy shows at Patpong.

On top of some of the wackiest sex shows in the city's main red-light district, Patpong is also good for counterfeit enthusiasts. What are you thinking of? Rolex, Tag Heuer, Casio, Louis Vitton, Chanel, Prada, Ray Ban. Anything you wish for! But too bad, we human beings haven't figured out how to copy a Rolls Royce or Lamborghini yet.

Before I digress any further, let me just state that Patpong and all its unsavory offerings (or savory, depending on your point of view) are under the jurisdiction of Bang Rak District. "Rak" means love. So, back in the day, this area must have been crammed w/ love trees. Pls don't ask me what it looks like 'cause I was apparently born way too late. Now, move on to another district also w/ a Bang.

The last stop of our underground MRT is 'Bang Sue." Oooh, why would you bang someone and then sue them? Is that level of dissatisfaction even fathomable? Ok, "Sue" means honesty or naivety in the Thai language. Whatever that means in this case! The district could have been the neighborhood of honest or naïve people to acquire such a title. Or, perhaps there's a tree or creature called "Sue" too?

Anyway, let's emerge from the subway and fly in the sky w/ the city's BTS skytrain. The up and coming extension to be in service next August will pass two areas w/ a Bang – Bang Chak and Bang Na. I'm not sure what's worth seeing in Bang Chak but you might wanna check out BITEC Bang Na, a huge exhibition hall notorious for its motor shows held quite often throughout the year. You know, apart from the cars, you also get skimpily-clad girls who might make you appreciate the vehicles more (which might not be the case in the first place.)

Get off the skytrain at Saphan Taksin Station and venture out on a boat to an older part of the city, Bangkok Noi (small Bangkok) and Bangkok Yai (big Bangkok.) What you will get here is mostly cultural stuff – the Chao Phraya River, canals, palaces, a train station w/ long history, villages specializing in various craftsmanship, the Thai Royal Navy base, and of course temples after temples. Want a famous one? Sure – Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun.

Contrary to a popular belief, Bangkok is indeed on the sea – the Gulf of Thailand. But only one district (out of 50) can claim this title and it is called Bang Khun Thian.

In summary, the city is subdivided by 50 districts, 12 of which starts w/ a Bang for the name. We all know what Bang as a verb in English means and what type of pleasure it can lead to. In the Thai language, the noun form is used to refer to a village or settlement situated on a river or canal. Once upon a time, Bangkok used to be a small trading center and port community on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. Now, you wanna know what "Kok' means?

On its own, it isn't a word yet, but possibly comes from "Ma-kok' which means olive. So, the once small town of Bangkok may have been abundant in olive orchards or traded olive as her main product.

Whatever she used to be or do, Bangkok now is a city that bangs. Here, you should easily get what you want, depending on how you look at it. She bangs you. You bang her. Or, you bang each other.

Joe

Bangkok Art & Cultural Center

We had waited for so long. The street corner used to be a little public park nobody frequented. Due to its prime location, one of the former governors of Bangkok (who now is an ousted prime minister of Thailand who could be jailed for two years) wanted to turn it into a parking lot. A guy like that deserves a sentence, doesn’t he? Anyone who encourages driving!

Note: he is not going to serve some 24 months in jail for that reason though.

Mr. Apirak, during his last term as the Governor of Bangkok, (he just got re-elected earlier this month) made this hip gallery happen.

If you think you might be going blind because of the myriad of goods on offer at a bunch of shopping malls nearby, stop at Bangkok Art & Cultural Center for the good and the better. It is just across the street from the MBK Center. But there’s no need to wait for a green light to cross a busy street. There is a skywalk from the MBK Center which means that the new round gallery is just half a minute away. Let’s see what Thai artists have to say.

The current feature is “Traces of Siamese Smiles,” (Thailand's old name is Siam) which will be on until late November this year. In addition to this exhibit , less established artists, esp. painters, are allowed to exhibit and sell their master pieces over some weekends. The front of the building is where the “trade” would take place. See? We love street enterprises and just maybe you will find another Bangkok souvenir to bring home and brag about.

Just a few hundred meters away from the new gallery, there is this little compound tucked inside a little lane housing a beautiful teak house. Heard of Jim Thompson? That’s right. It is the Jim Thompson House. While he was alive, he was an ardent art collector. Go visit his superb residence here in the heart of Bangkok, and you’ll see what the fuss is all about.

Decades later, a local man built a sizable building to showcase local arts. If Mr. Thomson was still here, he would be so pleased. Maybe this is the beginning of an art scene of some sort for Bangkok. So, don’t write this third-world city off just yet.

Art happens when people have enough to eat. Art is created when we can afford more time to think of things other than survival. Bangkok is still far from being a loaded city, financially speaking. But, she somehow conjured up this artsy place so snobs from around the world won’t have too many insults to hurl.

Nearest skytrain station: National Stadium.

Joe

Happy Ending

My good friend Ed from New York City is treating me to a session at a spa here in Bangkok tomorrow. Facial, manicure and massage. But not just a massage, rather a massage with a ‘happy ending’ if I so desire. And I must confess that in all my years of traveling to and living in Thailand I have never availed myself of a massage with a happy ending. I think I’ll pass tomorrow also, not that I am prudish or anything.

But there is a happy ending that I would like to get. If you have read some of my previous guest posts you’ll know that I have been coming to Thailand for 15 years. For the most part it was magical and captivating. It was just over 4 years ago that I decided to move and live here full time. I was drawn to the more peaceful, open, tolerant society. Sure, I knew there would be problems, that it wouldn’t be perfect. But in my mind I felt that I had brokered a deal for a new life with a ‘happy ending’. I’ve had to question all this over the past couple of weeks as Thai society has literally come undone with violent street demonstrations.

It’s my opinion that Thailand is still one of the safest countries in the world to live and you’d have to look far and wide to find a city on the scale of Bangkok that offers more personal safety. If you avoid the protest area around the Government House you’ll be in no danger whatsoever, almost anywhere in Bangkok. But the realization that Thailand is changing, and not for the better, has deeply saddened me. Opposing sides in the conflict have drawn a line in the sand. Compromise seems not to be in the picture. Lives have been lost, hundreds have been injured. Is it too late for Thais to return to their Buddhist teachings and look for the ‘middle path’? Certainly, if both sides were willing to do this the violence would stop and meaningful dialogue would follow that would hopefully lead to a solution. Thai or farang, we all must be very disappointed that we are not getting the happy ending that we so desired. I for one hope that both sides will come to their senses soon and that no more lives will be lost.

At BangkokSong we won’t promise you a happy ending. But we will promise you a visit that is an accurate reflection of Thailand today. Isn’t that what travel is all about?

Randall

Dream World

The alarm clock shook me out of a dream early one morning. It was 5.30 am, and I needed to get up right away or I would be late for Dream World.

To continue w/ the tradition, my company was set to celebrate an anniversary in a grand style. This year was her 40th.

There are two reasons why I agreed to part w/ my Saturday morning, precious idyllic time that makes up my day off. 1) I wanted to please my boss by joining the event and 2) I needed something to lift up my spirit after being so disturbed w/ another deadly clash in Bangkok a few days ago.

Dream World could be the place.

A few thousand employees and their family were given a free ticket and food allowance to descend upon and enjoy Bangkok’s Disneyland. Too bad, I couldn’t bring my husband along. It is clearly said in the conditions that the spouse has to be recognized under Thai law. Well, this is what happens when the laws are yet to acknowledge your bedroom behavior and mating preference.

But, it’s good that there is someone my age in our small department. And, it’s even better that most of my colleagues have past their “theme-park prime,” and yet their children are still too young for many sections of the park. So the assistant accountant and I teamed up and explored the place before it is too late for us as well. Our only hope before the game started was that we wouldn’t come to the realization that our time also had already been. If only Dream World could promise more hope for two 30 year olds.

Hurricane, Haunted Castle (which was lame, lame, lame), Vikings, Snow Town, Raptor, Mountain Space (for which we queued for an hour but which last 2 minutes), Grand Canyon (where we got thoroughly soaked), Super Splash (which wasn’t planned at all before we got wet,) Sky Coaster, Bump Car (very reminiscent of those junior high years), and the Giant House, inspired by Jack & the Beanstalk (much to my surprise, I really enjoyed seeing such overscale things).

But, my personal favorite was Snow Town. It was not the thick ice and artificial freezing temperature sending a chill down my spine. It was the slide board that did it! I kept thinking about the consequences if the board capsized and my face slid against the ice. I know…..very morbid indeed.

If my eyes didn’t lie or my sense of perception still functioned, I would say I saw at least 20,000 revelers yesterday. The vast majority were Thais, and tourists couldn’t possibly have exceeded 500. So, if you want a break from those international tourism sites and happen to travel w/ kids, this is the place!

The only downside for me was the food. But to be fair, good food is never the domain of most fairs, is it?

Dream World may be nothing compared to Disneyland, but you’ll definitely witness and be part of something Thais are especially good at – having fun.

On a side note, maybe my company should buy a ticket and food coupon for PAD protesters as well. It is high time they realized that something else matters as much as “democracy,” and it’s spelled w/ an F, U, and N.

How to get there:

From the centre of Bangkok, take a direct van from the Victory Monument. The fare is 35 Baht or about 1 dollar. You can easily get to Victory Monument using the BTS Skytrain, getting off at the station of the same name.

From Don Muang Airport, take the outbound Bus No 538. The fare is surely less than 1 dollar.

From Suvarnnabhumi Airport, take the Bus No 559. The fare is also a non issue.

See also their site (if you read Thai) at http://www.dreamworld-th.com/

Joe

democracy and STATIONERY

At lunchtime, my mom called and updated me on the nastiness at the parliament.

Around two, I surfed Bangkok Post, BBC, International Herald Tribune, and CNN so I would know what they said about the current situation in my city.

At 6.30 I read news on BBC about a car bomb that left one woman dead somewhere near where the police had clashed w/ the protesters.

At 7, I left work and headed for B2S at Central World Plaza. I spent more than a thousand Baht there for cute stationeries. Well, I just got promoted and the desk I’m assigned to needs Joe’s touch.

It was almost 10 pm when I got home. My husband cooked me dinner and we ate. Randy again was pissed at Thaksin for allegedly being behind this violence. He’d read somewhere that the ousted prime minister and his wife, Pojaman, are applying for political asylum in the UK and using this turmoil as ground for remaining there. I was pissed that I had to do the dishes after a long day at work.

Also, Randy updated me that Paul, our good friend, will be coming back from the UK to his life in the City of Angels. We’re so happy to hear his dad is doing well so our friend can be where he prefers to be.

Tomorrow, I’m gonna be busy “decorating” my desk and again dealing w/ colleagues who don’t seem happy w/ my new position. Whatever! Life goes on no matter what.

Riot police, tear gas, injured protesters, government house and parliament under siege, power struggle between old and new money, growing or crumbling “democracy,” dirty dishes after dinner, fan freaking tastic colleagues. Oh my gosh, I looove the fluorescent blue staples!!!

Joe

Emotional Rescue

So you’ve lost much of that nest egg you were counting on to see you through your retirement years. Sleepless nights, constant fretting over the ongoing losses in the market, a few more grey hairs. You look in the mirror and see a person, not days or weeks older since this meltdown began, but years older. And to top it off you’ve lost enough money that that ‘lift’ you were going to reward yourself with this year is simply out of the question. Life can be cruel. Not only did you lose a whack of money, the last three white knuckle weeks have had their own ‘meltdown’ affect on your appearance. You could fix it, but we both know what that calls for – cash.

So you’ve lost some money. Tomorrow you’ll make some more. You always get through these tough times, don’t you? I know that I have. I also know that we need to feel good about ourselves, and especially so when things start to fall apart around us. So perhaps that procedure needs to be considered after all. But in a more creativefashion. You had planned to spend about $10,000 US to turn back the clock. What if you could still do it but for half that price? Tempting? Hmm.

It’s called medical tourism and it’s flourishing in Thailand, specifically Bangkok. Top notch surgeons working out of stylish clinics and hospitals performing procedures at prices 50 -70% less than in the West. Hop on a flight, check in, check out, recuperate in style and then Smile. This is the Land of Smiles after all. And you look fabulous!

Don’t get me wrong though. Personally I’m a firm believer in taking care of yourself throughout life. The knife to me is the last resort. But we all have a different threshold that marks that point in time. It was almost a year ago that a lovely lady and her husband checked in with us. She confided that she was here to have some work done. Her passport gave her age as 45, her face said 10 years older. Fast forward 2 months later and a more vibrant, youthful, 35 year old beauty I have yet to see. I’m a believer, when the time is right.

Yes, life can be cruel. It can also be what we make of it, through the good times and the difficult times.

At Bangkoksong we’ll cater to your all personal needs while you’re recuperating. And trust me, it’ll be our little secret.

How Foreigners Are Contributing to the Way Thais Interact: (continued from the post dated Aug 28, 08)

Before you read this post, pls devour the one on Aug 28, 08 for background

.................Despite the good intentions on the foreigners' part, we Thai people used to be a little embarrassed w/ how non Thais would join palms whenever, wherever, and to whomever.

I mentioned in my first post that we consider age and social standing before lifting the hands. We are not used to older people humbly thanking us or somebody w/ better credentials graciously sending an apology our way.

Generally, young people will be a little offended if an older one initiates the graciousness. They will not be pleased because it could mean they look older than they are. Or, it could mean they will die first because they are now “older.” Weird, hay?

Also, when you regard yourself as inferior or less experienced to somebody, you would never expect their humility to come your way.

However, foreigners have not been conforming at all.

I've seen daddy-type white men demurely greet someone who's young enough to be his grandson. Then, women of my mother's age submissively thank me for the direction. Again, there will always be my expat tenants who apologize to their maid, having forgotten to leave the salary on time. Can you imagine how awkward the maids would feel?

Who knows? This could mean you guys are (albeit unknowingly) bringing agelessness and equality to a society where everyone is supposed to be someone or no one when compared to someone else.

Yes, we were embarrassed or uncomfortable at first. Now, we are getting used to it as this is what expats and tourists do.

Now that we've sort of been conditioned to it, we start to like it and it would feel awkward if foreigners stopped doing it.

It’s not that we enjoy being regarded as older or superior or anything at all. Just appreciate when people from another culture respect what we hold dearly. No matter how mistaken a person can be, it is entirely a good gesture after all.

So keep up the good work.

Appreciative Joe